A very inconvenient rebuild!
This is the rebuild caused by getting the remote oil filter pipes back to front....
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Remove the flip front
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The flip front
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Much better access for 2 bolts & a connector
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Remove the radiator etc.
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And then whip the engine out
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The engine
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The offending main bearing shell and big end shell
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The scored crank
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The block cleaned & ready for rebuild
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Freshly ground crank - 10thou undersize now
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Main bearing shells (upper half) in place
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Lubricated ready for the crankshaft
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Crankshaft rested in place
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Check bearing clearances with plastigauge - see the thin slither of stuff on the closest main bearing surface
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Fit the main bearing cap (including cross bolts), then remove it and see how wide the plastigauge has been squidged too. That gives you the bearing clearance
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Fit the main bearing caps & cross bolts
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Rear of crankshaft
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Rear crank oil seal in place
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A piston rested in the bore (no. 8)
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Big end bearing shell in place
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Lubricate it
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and place it on the crankshaft
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And fit the big end cap (not shown). Another piston with the ring compressor in place
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Big ends 8 & 7 fitted
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The remainder of the pistons
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And the big ends
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Oil pickup
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Camshaft
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and camshaft retaining plate (p38 engines only)
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timing chain
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Distributor (and oil pump) drive gear and spacer
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Timing cover back on
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Splash guard
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Crankshaft pulley
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Spacer as this is a long-nose crankshaft with an old style timing cover
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Oil pump gears
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Oil pump cover (remote filter type)
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Pipes to the remote filter & cooler and a CJC special remote oil pressure sensor. I wrote the direction of flow on the cover this time!!
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Sump gasket on
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Sump
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Bottom end all finished
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Headgasket (composite type)
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Head in place (new stretch type bolts used)
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Both heads on and the camshaft lubricated with 'cam lube'. I reckon chain oil is as good
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Hydraulic tappets in
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Pushrods on one side
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Rocker shaft. This is when one should check hydraulic tappet preload
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Valve gear all in
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Valley gasket
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Inlet manifold. It's looking more like an engine now!
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Belts, pulleys, distributor, rocker covers & remote oil filter
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Starter motor
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Crankshaft adapter
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Ring gear & flex plate
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The waiting engine bay. Notice the PAS pump still connected up. No need to drain the PAS system doing it this way
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Popping the engine back in
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Magic - the engine & gearbox are perfectly aligned!. Stick in some bolts ASAP
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Engine mounts
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It's easier to fit the mounts after the engine is connected to the gearbox
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Stick the ancillaries back on, and the radiator etc. Triple check the oil cooler plumbing this time.
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All that remains is to remove the distributor, prime the oil pump, fill the radiator & give it a try!
